Hunting Arms and Ammunition: Muzzleloading
Interest in muzzleloading firearms and hunting with muzzleloaders is one of the fastest growing areas of hunting today. That growth has been the product and the driving force behind creation of special seasons for muzzleloading. To many hunters, using muzzleloading firearms is the ultimate single-shot experience, and opportunity to increase the quality of the hunt through greater challenge, rebirth of hunting history and reduced hunter pressures. Like bow hunting, muzzleloader hunting provides an opportunity to increase the quality of the experience for experienced hunters.
Muzzleloaders as Hunting Arms
Muzzleloader hunters share the desire for quick, clean kills with other hunters. Like modern firearms, muzzleloaders kill by delivering a lethal level of energy and tissue damage to vital parts of the body. Shot placement and absorbed energy are the keys to clean kills. While modern high-velocity bullets may kill by spectacular levels of hydrostatic shock, muzzleloaders operate at a lower energy level with excellent penetration power. Black powder projectiles kill by a combination of shock and body fluid loss.
Shock is provided as kinetic energy when the vital organs of the animal absorb the moving bullet. Taking the square of the velocity and multiplying by the mass of the bullet divided by two calculate this energy. In common American practice, it is measured in pounds-feet or foot-pounds. A .54 caliber muzzleloading rifle firing either a 450-grain maxi-ball or a 230-grain round ball at maximum loading has approximately the same energy as a .25-06 at the muzzle. Its momentum, a measure of its ability to penetrate, is greater than that of a 175-grain 7mm Remington Magnum bullet traveling at 2800 feet-per-second. These slower, more massive bullets do not produce the spectacular hydrostatic shock seen in high velocity rifle bullets, but they produce adequate shock and deep penetration of vital tissues. They are extremely effective in downing big game. Their soft bullets deform and shed energy quickly, resulting in quick and clean kills when the bullets are properly placed.
Mass and velocity interact in several ways. Obviously, it is more difficult to move a 440-grain bullet than it is to move a 100-grain bullet. It takes more energy to accelerate it. At the same time, it takes more friction to slow it down once it has been accelerated. The shape of the projectile also influences the drag or friction of the air. Round balls are relatively inefficient, shedding their energy rather quickly. Long bullets, with more mass for their diameter, tend to lose their velocity more slowly. The relationship between mass and basal area is known as sectional density. Higher sectional density increases retained energy and penetration.
Bullet construction also influences bullet performance. Soft lead bullets like those used in muzzleloaders deform easily. That reduces their penetration ability but increases their transfer of energy to the vital organs of the game animal. The demonstration on wet telephone books is similar to very dense tissue, like bone. Note the behavior and the shape of the projectiles when they are recovered.
Shot Placement
Regardless of the energy or momentum applied, the key to quick, clean kills with any firearm is accurate shot placement. The shot should be placed to provide maximal disruption of vital functions. The central nervous system (brain and spinal cord), circulatory system (heart and major blood vessels), and the respiratory system (lungs or air sacs) all provide the potential for nearly instant kills. Even liver hits can result in quick kills, but most hunters could not locate one without having the animal open to field dress it, and hits in the abdominal cavity are more likely to result in difficult recovery challenges.
Shot placement is a combination of good marksmanship and self-control. Since muzzleloading is a one shot game in almost all cases, the hunter must exercise self-control to make the best use of a single shot. Firing should be delayed until a clear shot at a vital area is presented. The heart-lung area on the lower rear area of the shoulder is the best choice. It offers a greater margin for error while providing quick kills. The shooter should remember that the vital area is in the middle of a three-dimensional space, so they need to think of an imaginary line representing the path of the bullet through the area containing the vital organs.
The brain represents a small, but immediately effective shot. Misses can result in severe and debilitating wounds that could allow a crippled animal to escape. Neck shots have similar potential. While a hit in the spinal cord or the major blood vessels of the neck is quickly lethal, hits in the fleshy part of the neck or in the esophagus or trachea may result in lost animals that die from wound related complications. With the heart-lung shot, a low shot hits the heart or misses clean. A high shot takes the lungs, aorta, or spine. A shot slightly too far forward breaks the shoulder or the spine at the base of the neck, while a shot that is slightly too far back hits the liver. All of these are disabling shots or shots that result in a quick kill. The vital area itself is much larger than that encountered in either of the other potential shots. No sportsman worthy of the name will deliberately cripple an animal with a so-called “break-down” shot, such as a shot to the mid-spine or pelvis. Animals presenting only those types of shots should be passed unless a sure killing shot presents itself.
Ignition Systems
Black powder traces its history to either China or Europe, appearing in both places at about the same time. Its earliest use was in fireworks. Within a relatively short time it was adapted to military uses in hand cannons and artillery pieces. The powder itself has changed very little since its creation. It is still composed of sulfur, sodium or potassium nitrate (saltpeter) and charcoal, with the burning rate governed by the size of the grains.
Early ignition systems for black powder arms included the use of hot wires, matches, or fuses. These devices were inserted through a touchhole to detonate the powder charge. The matchlock action used a slow match or fuse that was held in a serpentine. When the trigger was pulled, the serpentine lowered the match into a flash pan or touchhole setting off the powder charge. These arms depended upon a source of fire and relatively dry conditions for best operation. Next came the wheel lock. A mainspring was wound and held in place by a sear attached to the trigger mechanism. When the trigger was pulled, the spring caused a pyrite wheel to whirl against steel much like a modern cigarette lighter. The shower of sparks ignited a priming charge that detonated the main powder charge. While wheel lock arms were effective and a great improvement, they were expensive.
The flint and steel fire starting principle was used in flintlock arms. These arms were more weather resistant, since they included a frizzen and a pan cover that were integrated. Properly primed and in reasonable weather, they were dependable and accurate. Flinters were in use when the first Pilgrims came to Plymouth and Jamestown and they continued to be used well into the American Civil War.
The discovery of pressure-sensitive chemicals led to the development of a new ignition system in the middle of the 19th century. A thin copper cup containing a small amount of a pressure-sensitive explosive was fitted to a nipple that had a fire channel to the main powder charge. When the hammer fell on the percussion cap, the explosive detonated and sent a hot flash into the powder charge igniting it. In addition, they were somewhat more weather resistant than flintlock arms. Caplock arms carried the seeds of their own obsolescence. When the cap was inserted into a cartridge that could be loaded into the breech of a firearm, firing speed and weather resistance both improved, and the era of the breech-loading firearm began.
Today’s muzzleloading hunter most frequently uses either a caplock or flintlock firearms. Both systems are available in a variety of firearms suitable for many hunting conditions. Since the hunter must be hunter, shooter and reloader at the same time, the use of any muzzleloading firearm for hunting increases the knowledge needed, the safety considerations, and the demand on the hunter’s skills. Caplocks are somewhat easier to manage for the beginner, with greater weather resistance, less apparent distractions for the shooter, and fewer tools and skills needed to use them. Beginners should learn to use caplock firearms effectively before using flintlocks for hunting. Flinters are more sensitive to weather conditions, and priming errors have a significant impact on ignition speed.
Charging and Cleaning Supplies and Equipment
Powder – Only four propellants are currently available for muzzleloading firearms. Black powder in the appropriate granulation, Pyrodex, Triple 7, and Clean Shot are useful in caplock firearms of all types. Flintlock shooters should stick to black powder only, since Pyrodex is more difficult to ignite and may not ignite consistently in flintlock arms. Smokeless Powder of any type should NEVER be used in any muzzleloading firearm.
Black powder is available in several grain sizes for muzzleloading arms. The granule size is designated by Fs. Single F or Fg powder is the coarsest powder. It is used in big bore muskets. Double F or FFg powder is used in most rifles and shotguns. Triple F or FFFg powder is used primarily in small caliber rifles and pistols. In a pinch, it can also be used as priming powder for flintlocks, although four F or FFFFg powder or pan powder is the best choice. FFFFg powder should NEVER be used in the bore of a muzzleloading firearm. It is used only in charging flash pans! Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations on both the granulation and the charge of powder being used.
Pyrodex comes in three grades: C, RS, and P. C Pyrodex is used in cannons. RS Pyrodex is used in rifles and shotguns, while P Pyrodex is used in pistols. Because of its ignition characteristics, Pyrodex is not suitable for use in flintlock arms. Pyrodex is an acronym for Pyrotechnic Deflagrating Explosive.
Triple 7 comes in the same grades, or Fs, as black powder for muzzleloading firearms. It contains no sulfur and is easier to clean up after use. Caution must be paid to the amount of powder used, as about 15% less is required when compared to loads of black powder. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations on both granulation and powder charge for use in muzzleloading arms.
Clean Shot comes in three grades, similar to Pyrodex: C, RS, and P. Clean Shot is another sulfur-free powder that burns significantly cleaner than either black powder or Pyrodex. Again, volumes vary from black powder and/or Pyrodex and the manufacturer’s recommendations for powder charges and granulation applications should be strictly adhered to.
Although some other types of powders have been advertised for muzzleloading arms, firearm manufacturers have approved no other powders besides those listed above.
Loading Tools – Since muzzleloaders need to be handloaders as well as shooters, they require a few additional tools. These tools are often carried in a “possibles” bag or shooter’s bag. Some hunters carry pre-measured powder charges. Others carry a powder horn, flask, or bag and measure each charge as it is needed. In either case, a powder measure of some non-sparking material is needed. Powder measures are commonly made of brass, copper, horn, antler, bone, or some non-sparking plastics. They may be fixed to the charge the shooter has settled upon or adjustable. The main requirements (beyond the non-sparking characteristic) are that they hold the appropriate amount of powder and that they measure the powder both reliably and consistently. Powder always must be measured carefully for both safety and accuracy. Powder measures set for a given charge of black powder can be used to measure the equivalent charge of Pyrodex, Triple 7, or Clean Shot, since they deliver equivalent performance on a volume for volume basis even though it is lighter than black powder.
One of the fundamental safety considerations for muzzleloading is that powder is always dropped into the barrel from a powder measure. It should NEVER be loaded directly from any primary container, even those equipped with a measuring spout! If the powder should flash, the container becomes a small bomb – much worse than a singed coonskin hat!
Projectiles – The traditional projectile for muzzleloading rifles and muskets is the patched round ball. These pure lead balls are cast slightly smaller than bore diameter, with the remainder of the bore being taken up by a lubricated patch. Balls used in cap-and-ball pistols are cast slightly larger than bore diameter. In either case, balls with a sprue are loaded with the sprue pointing upward. Although this looks like it would have an impact on accuracy and bullet flight, placing the sprue straight up (on the leading edge) causes the least interference with accuracy. Although round balls are the traditional muzzleloading projectiles, they have some disadvantages from the hunter’s point of view. Their shape is inefficient, so they lose both velocity and energy rather quickly. In addition, they have relatively low sectional density (a measure of their weight relative to their diameter), which reduces their penetration ability. They also tend to deflect rather easily if they encounter obstacles. Finally, they require patching material and a lubricant the use of which may slow the process of preparing to shoot a second time.
The shortcomings of round balls brought about the development of the Minnie ball or ”conical” bullet for muzzleloading rifles and muskets during the 19th century. In more recent times, muzzleloader manufacturers have developed specially designed bullets for the big game hunter. Maxi-balls, buffalo bullets, and similar projectiles have greater mass, higher sectional density, and better retained energy and velocity than do round balls. They are somewhat easier to load, particularly if they are pre-lubed. Since the top and bottom bands on the bullet obturate the bore, they need no patching material and are generally easier to load – particularly in a slightly fouled barrel. Some manufacturers have gone a step further, using a plastic sabot to load a jacketed rifle or pistol bullet in the muzzleloading firearm. Sabots should be used only as directed by the manufacturer of the firearm.Muzzleloading shotguns use the same sizes and types of shot that can be fired from a breech-loading firearm. Shot size and type should be selected to match the game being hunted. The shot and powder charges are matched to the shotgun being used. Unlike the rifle and pistol charges, shotguns use several patches in constructing each load.
Patches and Patch Lube – All rifle, single shot pistol, and musket balls must be patched with an appropriate type and thickness of material lubricated with an appropriate lube. The lubricated patch serves several functions. It obturates or seals the bore, keeping expanding the gases behind the bullet and maximizing the energy imparted to the ball. It impresses its weave on the ball while engaging the rifling, causing the ball to spin for greater stability in flight. It also provides a buffer between the steel of the barrel and the soft lead of the ball, preventing lead fouling. A very tight fit usually produces the best accuracy.
Patches should be made of cotton, linen, wool, or similar natural materials. Many synthetics melt under the heat of firing, leaving a sticky residue that is very difficult to remove from the bore. Patches of several thicknesses are available as pre-cut patches from a number of sources. Many shooters prefer to make their own from pillow ticking or similar material. The patch strip is trimmed with a knife after the ball is started into the bore.
Many substances can be used to lubricate a patch. Spit patches are lubricated with saliva. They have the advantage of being handy, but they tend to dry out and lose their lubricating ability. In addition, they do not give the same level of accuracy that might be expected from some of the other types of lubricants. Vegetable shortening, animal fats, natural waxes, and oils and petroleum-based products have been used successfully as patch lubes. Non-petroleum based products are advised by some manufacturers in an effort to reduce fouling and bore damage from powder residues. For the shooter who uses both patched balls and bullets, a bullet lube that doubles as a good patch lube is an excellent idea. All lube grooves in the bullet should be completely filled with the lubricant.
Patch materials for shotguns are somewhat different. Once the powder is loaded, the shooter inserts a snug-fitting card wad (nitro card) or two wool wonder wads and presses them down onto the powder. Many shooters who use the nitro card wad add a "felt” or composition wad to cushion the shot. After the shot has been added to the load, a very thin card wad is seated on the shot charge to keep it in place. During this operation, the gases trapped under the wad may force the wad back up the bore slightly. Maintain pressure on the wad until the ramrod remains in place when it is released.
Charging a Muzzleloading Firearm
The first step in loading any muzzleloading firearm is making sure that it is not already loaded. The use of a marked ramrod is strongly suggested, with marks on the rod for both the normal hunting load and the empty condition. The marked rod makes it easy to determine the status of the firearm. Alternatively, the barrel may be plumbed with the rod. Mark the top of the barrel with the thumbnail, and then place the rod alongside the barrel. If it comes to the flash hole of nipple or very close to it, the firearm is empty. If it does not, consider the arm loaded and proceed as required.
Next, clear the flash hole or nipple by firing several caps or pans of powder. As a safety precaution, even with empty muzzleloaders, ALWAYS fire the first cap or pan of powder with the muzzle pointed downrange at an appropriate backstop. Next, point the muzzle at a light object, like a leaf or blade of grass, and watch that object as the second shot is fired. If the barrel is clear, the material should move. This clearing process eliminates many of the causes of misfires with muzzleloading firearms.
Carefully measure a charge of black powder or other approved explosive using a powder measure. Make sure that the type and grain size is appropriate before measuring the charge. Re-seal the powder container by screwing the cap in place or inserting the plug. Holding the muzzle away from the face and body, carefully pour the measured charge into the barrel. Strike the side of the barrel several times with the flat of the hand to settle the powder.
Load a ball by centering a lubed patch over the muzzle and centering a ball with the sprue pointed up in the patch. Place the short starter on the ball and either push firmly or give it a pop with the hand to start the ball into the barrel. If a strip of patching material is used, trim the patch flush with the barrel at this time with a sharp knife. Next, use the long starter to push the ball about 4-6 inches down the bore. Complete the seating job by taking short strokes with the ramrod, holding it close to the muzzle to prevent breaking it. Be sure that he ball is fully seated on the powder with not air space trapped between the powder and the ball. Finally, withdraw and replace the ramrod before capping or priming.
Maxi or Minnie balls are loaded in similar fashion. No patching material is needed, and filling all the grooves with lubricant lubricates the bullet itself. Usually light pressure with the thumb or a fingertip is adequate to start the bullet into the barrel and the ramrod can be used to seat it.
As noted above, shotguns require some additional modifications of the loading procedure. Once the powder charge has been loaded, one or more over-powder wads are added. Usually that is a combination of a nitro card and a felt or composition wad or a pair of wool wonder wads. Next, the shot charge is measured and dropped using the same measure that was used for the powder. Finally, a thin over-shot wad is inserted into the bore and pressed firmly down onto the shot charge with the ramrod. Some backpressure will be experienced at this point, and it is important to continue the pressure until the ramrod stays in place when it is released. When double barreled guns are being loaded, be sure to use a system that keeps everything straight, like leaving the ramrod in the barrel being loaded or keeping the wads visible until ready to perform the next step.
Loading cap-and-ball pistols is slightly different. Each cylinder is both a chamber and a muzzle. The chamber is charged with powder, and then a slightly oversized ball is rammed down the cylinder mouth. After all the cylinders are loaded, a layer of lubricating grease should be applied to each cylinder mouth. While this was thought to prevent chain fires, its primary purpose is to lubricate the ball as it enters the barrel. Be sure that each chamber has a cap firmly pressed into place before firing the pistol. Any loose caps carry the potential to ignite a chain fire.
Cap or prime the firearm only when ready to fire. On caplock forearms, press the cap firmly into place. Some hunters use beeswax or fingernail polish to seal the cap in place in foul weather. If the flash hole is covered, ignition will be very slow, even if it produces a superior “flash in the pan.” The firearm is now ready for firing.
Selecting Loads for Hunting
For hunting purposes, muzzleloading shotguns can be treated much like breech loading shotguns of similar gauge. The standard loadings are very similar to the standard target loadings for each gauge with 10 gauge guns firing 1 1/4 –ounce loads and 12 gauge guns firing a 1 1/8-ounce load of lead shot. In general, the shot charge uses the same volume as the powder charge, so a single dipper or measure can be used. Velocities and patterns are similar to modern shotguns with the same load and boring. Many muzzleloading shotguns are made with cylinder bores, but they are also available with choked barrels or choke tubes.
Like other kinds of shotgunning, the challenge is in adjusting the load size to the needs and the legal requirements. Most guns may be used with either lead or steel loads, and the shot size may be adjusted to the game being taken. Payload and velocity can be adjusted within the ranges specified by the manufacturer, but the shooter should stick to established loading data provided with the firearm.
Hunters using rifles and muskets should consult the state regulations for the game being taken and the season. Some states restrict the type of projectile or even the type of sights that may be used in special muzzleloading seasons. Most states have minimum caliber restrictions for big game hunting, and some have higher caliber requirements for larger species, like elk or moose.Manufacturer’s guidelines for powder types, powder charges and projectile types and weights should be followed religiously! Be sure that you are using data developed for the particular model of firearm you intend to use. Data developed for one model may not be transferable to another, even in the same caliber from the same manufacturer. If any doubt exists, contact the manufacturer for a set of loading tables for the arm in question.
Within the range of loadings available and recommended by the manufacturer the hunter needs to experiment to find the right combination of projectile, powder type and charge weight that produces the desired combination of accuracy and energy. In general, the bullet-shaped projectiles will be more efficient than at retaining energy than will round balls. Some manufacturers have a variety of bullet weights available for their arms, and experimentation will lead to finding the one your rifle prefers. Accuracy is more important than minor differences in energy, but make sure the terminal energy is high enough to affect clean kills. A good general starting point for target loads is about one grain of powder for every caliber (for example: 50 grains of FFg for a .50 caliber rifle). A good load for hunting may be considerably more potent. With accuracy and terminal energy considered, determine the maximum range at which you can realistically expect to take game effectively. Once that is determined, pass up shots beyond that distance.
Regardless of their caliber and poorly written game laws in some states, muzzleloading handguns are not suited for taking big game. With the relatively mild loads published, these firearms may be used for taking small game and varmints at fairly close range. The limit for a good shot might be somewhat less than 40 yards, and many shooters need to limit themselves further to make consistently clean, humane kills.
Special Safety Precautions
Muzzleloading hunters must abide by all the same safety rules and guidelines followed by other hunters. The nature of their sport and the tools used in it adds another layer. The hunter must be a good hunter, a good shooter, and a good handloader in order to be safe and effective. A few additional rules are listed here for your consideration.
No smoking, fire, or flames around muzzleloaders. Black powder has an explosive burning rate. A single spark or ember from any source is enough to set it off. There is no room for error around black powder. No source of flame or sparks should be permitted anywhere near exposed black powder.
Keep all powder containers sealed except when actually measuring a powder charge. Any open container, from a powder horn to a can of powder, is a potential bomb if a stray spark or ember can get into it. Since muzzleloading firearms tend to produce some sparks and embers when they are being used, make sure that you close all containers immediately after measuring the powder and before dropping the powder into the bore.
Always use a suitable powder measure to measure and transfer powder into the bore. Using any container to pour powder into a firearm is an invitation to disaster! The small amount of powder dropped from a powder measure is a minimal hazard. The amount contained in a flask, bag, or horn is much more dangerous. Never use one of these containers to transfer powder to the bore.
Handle all misfires with great caution. Occasionally a muzzleloader misfires. When it does, the shooter must keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, anticipating a delayed discharge for at least 10 to 30 seconds. After that wait, lower the firearm with its muzzle pointed downrange and wait another minute or so. Once you are sure that the firearm is not going to fire, clear the pan or cap, check bullet seating, and attempt to fire again.
Make sure all projectiles are firmly seated on the powder. All shooters know the dangers of an obstructed barrel. Failure to seat the projectile firmly on the powder charge creates a barrel obstruction.
Keep the barrel clean. Keeping the barrel clean prevents problems with bullet seating. In addition, wiping out the barrel between shots eliminates lingering sparks that could cause a nasty surprise when the next powder charge is dropped. Solvent, alcohol, or saliva makes good cleaning agents for this operation.
Develop consistent loading procedures to keep things straight. Practice and follow proper loading sequences. Remember to replace the ramrod before capping or priming the firearm. Joining the “order of the arrow” is not an honor in muzzleloading circles, and losing your ramrod makes hunting a whole lot more difficult.
Double-check all doubles and your procedures. Checking yourself (and anyone else who handled a gun) can keep you out of difficulty. Check both barrels of doubles before and after loading. If anything is in doubt, pull the charges and start over! Develop a loading sequence that keeps things straight as you load the firearm.
NEVER put anything you need over the muzzle. Since the muzzle is the business end of the firearm, a wise muzzleloader shooter minimizes his or her exposure to the muzzle at all times. Some carry that so far as to push the ramrods home by hooking the tip of the little finger over the end of the ramrod and pressing the bullet home with it. Keep the muzzle pointed away from yourself and anyone else while loading. Finally, in spite of anything you might have heard or seen in the past, NEVER blow down the barrel of a muzzleloading firearm to make sure it is empty. Someday it might not be! In addition, the moisture from your breath will react with the powder residue to form acids that attack the barrel and you run the risk of ingesting minute quantities of lead, a toxic heavy metal.
Welcome to the muzzleloading hunters’ society. You are entering an area where the process defines quality and the demands on the hunter increase the joy of the hunt itself. Happy hunting!
